Agra, The Taj Mahal, and so much more.

We visited Agra at the end of June 2024. This was my second trip to the Taj and a first for the husband. I had told him that "you really can't appreciate the beauty and greatness of the Taj until you see it in person, then you'll be in awe", And in Awe he was...

We bought our tickets for the Taj online which was not only convenient but also allowed us to skip big ques. We didn't get tickets for the Baby Taj etc and the ticket counter guys were not at all impressed that they had to deal with us. They do have a sign board at every monument for quick scan and pay but it's probably better to do it ahead of time and avoid any network mishaps. You also get a small discount for buying online.

Everyone prefers to do the online tickets since COVID.

The last time I was in Agra I had stayed somewhere else, I will not mention the name but you can ask me directly. The previous place was also very nice but there were some downsides like, overcharging. The agency had told me only to pay for my tour guide and driver but left with a bill over 8500 rupees, which is what they were already paid. The other downside was I could bring any food or beverage beyond water in my room and that was a deal breaker for me. I need my morning coffee...ALONE...in my room and undisturbed.

This time around, we stayed at the Coral Court Homestay. This was my first time here and I was above and beyond impressed. The hospitality! Everyone was so pleasant and welcoming. The food was amazing and everything is cooked fresh. They don't just give you what is already cooked, but ask you what you want and make it for you. I told them I had a wheat allergy and the cook made me some gluten free rotis without me even asking! What a sweetheart she is. The accommodation itself was clean and beautifully decorated. They had an amazing rooftop patio where we had some monkey business! The monkeys stole my oranges, but no big deal! I had ordered what I thought was 5 oranges and got 5 packs of 3 oranges! So I had plenty and was willing to share.

Moving on to The Taj Mahal...

Taj Mahal means "Crown Palace" and is in fact the most well preserved and architecturally beautiful tomb in the world.

The rectangular base of Taj is in itself symbolic of the different sides from which to view a beautiful woman. The main gate is like a veil to a woman’s face which should be lifted delicately, gently and without haste on the wedding night. In Indian tradition the veil is lifted gently to reveal the beauty of the bride. As one stands inside the main gate of Taj, his eyes are directed to an arch which frames the Taj.

Shah Jahan, also known as Prince Khurram, was born in 1592 to his father Jahangir, who at that point of time was the Mughal Ruler of India. The story starts in the year of 1607, when Prince Khurram was taking a walk in the Meena Bazaar, and it is here that he saw Arjumand Banu Begum, who was hawking silk and glass beads. The Muslim Persian Princess was 15, Prince Khurram was 14, and it was love at first sight for the Prince. After meeting her, he proclaimed his love for her in front of his father. The marriage was solemnized after five years in 1612.

Like her Aunt, Empress Nur Jahan, Mumtaz was also remarkable in the field of learning and was a talented and cultured lady. She was well-versed in Arabic and Persian, could compose poems, and was known to exude beauty. During the intervening years between their betrothal and marriage, Shah Jahan had married his first wife, Princess Kandahari Begum in 1610 and in 1617, after marrying Mumtaz, took a third wife, Izz-un-Nissa Begum (titled Akbarabadi Mahal)

By all accounts, Shah Jahan was so taken with Mumtaz that he showed little interest in exercising his polygamous rights with his two other wives, other than dutifully siring a child with each. According to the official court chronicler, the relationship with his other wives "had nothing more than the status of marriage. The intimacy, deep affection, attention and favor which Shah Jahan had for Mumtaz exceeded what he felt for his other wives." Likewise, Shah Jahan's historian Inayat Khan commented that 'his whole delight was centered on this illustrious lady (Mumtaz), to such an extent that he did not feel towards the others one-thousandth part of the affection that he did for her.'

Mumtaz had a loving marriage with Shah Jahan. Even during her lifetime, poets would extol her beauty, grace, and compassion. In their 19 years of marriage, they had 14 children together (eight sons and six daughters), seven of whom died at birth or at a very young age.

When Mumtaz Mahal was still alive, she extracted four promises from the emperor: first, that he build a grand tomb in her honor; second, that he should never marry again after her death; third, that he be kind to their children; and fourth, that he visit the tomb on her death anniversary. However, due to ill health and being under house arrest by his own son and successor to the throne, Aurangzeb, barred him from continuing to keep the last promise.

 It is said that, after the demise of Mumtaz Mahal, the emperor went into an inconsolable grief and the death so crushed the emperor that all his hair and beard were said to have grown snow white in just a few months.

The Taj Mahal

Shah Jahan and Mumtaz's love story is iconic, but my heart leans towards a different love tale. The one between Mumtaz's Aunt and Shah Jahan's father is the one that truly intrigues me. I often find myself pondering why Mumtaz never stood up for her Aunt Nur Jahan. Perhaps she fought silently, or maybe her fate was sealed when Emperor Jahangir passed away. Shah Jahan wasted no time stripping Nur Jahan of her power, banishing her, and placing her under house arrest in Lahore (now Pakistan). Nur Jahan and Jahangir rest there now, a place I yearn to visit one day to pay homage to their undying love. Their journey was one of patience, defiance, and eventual togetherness against all odds and societal norms. The absence of a grand monument like the Taj Mahal showcasing their love to the world has unfortunately left their story in the shadows, but I believe it's a tale worth remembering.

That story will come as I visit Pakistan in the near future...

Mehtab Bhag

Legend has it, Shah Jahan in his grief stricken state was set on building another Taj for himself but in Black marble. This placement is named Mehtab Bhag and can be seen on the other side of the Taj grounds. His son, Aurangzeb, then imprisoned him, preventing him from another costly build. He remained imprisoned till his death and watched the Taj from his bedroom prison longing to visit his beloved as he had promised her. He was then placed in a tomb beside Mumtaz which makes it the only part on the Taj that is not perfectly symmetrical.

It was my first peak of the Taj Mahal in 2020 at Mehtab Bhag. It's the foundation of the first initial build of the black Taj. Over the river positioned directly across from the white Taj and makes for good sunset pictures! if you arrive mid or later in the day to Agra you can visit here as a first look. The best time for visiting the Taj is sunrise and sunset when the lighting is bewitching and the crowds are less and the heat has died down. Weather permitting the Taj changes colors depending on the sun and can also be quite beautiful in the moon light as well. Check for a full moon view online.

Red Fort of Agra

Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah aka Baby Taj

Nur Jahans father's tomb is also in Agra and known as the Tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah, or the "Baby Taj Mahal". Are things starting to connect? I just love this part of seeing India! Learning how everyone was intertwined and connected, it's just so fascinating to me, and now that I've had more time and opportunity to absorb the beauty of everything, I feel I can place things and people for greater understanding and significance. makes things so much more meaningful. When you watch all the historical Bollywood movies it also makes things come alive! I will add these to my favorite movies/series list in another Blog.

Akbar's Tomb

I had been to Akbars Tomb back in 2022 and then again on our recent trip in 2024. True story; In 2022, I was around the back of the tomb with my guide at the time and we were on our way out to leave when I stopped to take one last look around when something fell at my feet from above and startled me. It was a Piece of white marble from the tomb! I couldn't believe it! I asked my guide "is that?" he said yes, I said "can I take it"? he said "yes but quickly"! So, I quickly grabbed it without being spotted by security and shoved it into my pocket. What an amazing souvenir!!! definitely beats the Kali Mata fridge magnet I bought (although still cool), I was super excited and a bit nervous to be bringing back such a unique and special piece of india and history.

Agra is not just the Taj Mahal but so much more than that. It's not the most lovely city in India i'm not gonna lie, and scams are rampant in this city, but it's a must see at least once! Would I revisit? Maybe. When I visit India, it's always going to be an option, especially if I'm with someone who has never experienced it. I can really connect with the history in Agra which makes visiting these monuments feel so much more special to me. I feel like it doesn't matter how many times you visit the monuments in Agra, they are like a new yet familiar experience with each revisit, and forever mesmerizing.